My trip in Luang Prabang

Getting there - Luang Prabang - Laos

By Plane -- Lao Airlines (tel. 021/212-057, or 021/214-427 for reservations; www.laoairlines.com) has daily flights from Vientiane to Luang Prabang for US$52 (£29) one-way. Two flights weekly connect Luang Prabang with Xieng Khouang (US$40/£22) and Pakse (US$135/£74). There are no direct flights to the far north; for that, you'll need to fly directly from Vientiane.

The Luang Prabang International Airport handles international flights from Chiang Mai, Bangkok, Hanoi, and Siem Reap. On Lao Airlines, the cost is US$118 (£65) to Bangkok, US$72 (£40) to Chiang Mai, US$115 (£63) to Hanoi, and US$135 (£74) to Siem Reap. On Thai Air, Chiang Mai flights are US$85 (£47). Visas are available on arrival at the airport. Airport transport is best arranged through any hotel. Otherwise, hop a shared, three-wheeled jumbo for US$1 (£0.55) or so.

By Bus/Minivan -- The overland route to Luang Prabang from Vientiane takes about 10 hours by public bus, assuming there are no difficulties (breakdowns are common). There are international warnings about travel on this stretch, and though it has been quiet in recent years, you should ask around before hitting the road. The trip is bumpy and winding, and local buses are often packed. However, the jaw-dropping scenery, past the mountains and limestone formations at Vang Vieng and several Hmong hill villages, is well worth it. The bus costs 90,000 kip (US$9/£4.95) and has a few morning departures from Vientiane's Northern Bus Station. Go early to get a seat. Luang Prabang's NaLuang (Southern) Bus Station is a 10,000 kip (US$1/£0.55) per person shared tuk-tuk ride from the town center. There are also daily connections to Phonsavan (90,000 kip/US$9/£4.95) and the far north.

By Car/Jeep -- The mountain route by rented vehicle takes 7 hours and costs about 2,300,000 kip (US$230/£127), plus 600,000 kip (US$60/£33) per day, plus extra for the driver's meals and accommodations. If it seems steep, blame all the NGOs operating in Laos for driving up the prices -- they all get reimbursed from expense accounts (in case you were wondering where your charity money ends up).

By Boat -- Boat travel to and from Luang Prabang is quite popular. The local boat (called the slow boat) from Houayxay (near the Thai border) departs for Luang Prabang every morning. Arrive early at the riverside quay. The trip costs 120,000 kip (US$12/£6.6) and takes about 1 1/2 days to complete. You'll stay overnight in Pak Beng, a village with basic accommodations, before arriving in Luang Prabang on the afternoon of the next day (assuming no engine trouble or other delays). Be prepared for all kinds of discomfort, though you'll have many tales to tell afterward. The chug upriver from Luang Prabang takes up to 3 days and is not recommended.

Speedboats also connect Luang Prabang with Houayxay if they get enough passengers to make the trip worthwhile (contact the main port at tel. 021/215-924). Speedboat travel is uncomfortable, noisy, and dangerous, but it cuts the travel time to around 7 hours. Tour operators in town offer tickets for US$30 (£17).

Luang Say Cruises (Ban Vat Sene, Sakkarine Rd., Luang Prabang, near Diethelm Travel; tel. 071/252-553; www.asian-oasis.com) also operates tour boats on the same route between Thailand and Luang Prabang. Starting at around US$268 for a single in high season, there are both 2- and 3-day trips that take you on the river in style, catered to and comfortable, with 1-night stops at the Luang Say Lodge and/or the Kamu Lodge, both charming, rustic eco-lodges on the banks of the Mekong.

On all other river routes, like the Nam Tha between Luang Namtha and Pak Beng and the Nam Ou from Nong Kiao to Luang Prabang, you essentially have to charter your own boat with other tourists. Contact any travel agent or tour provider to make arrangements and get more details (availability varies by season).

Sala cafe's photo

Sala cafe, Luang Prabang

Opened in 2008, this French-owned café offers a mix of Laotian, Vietnamese and French cuisine. Second to none, however, are two things - their ice-cream cocktails and desserts, combining the very best of three above mentioned, and its unparalleled atmosphere and location. Sited on a less active Nam Khan River, it gains in ambiance and intimacy, in comparison to similar places on the Mekong, at the other end of the street.

Nam Khan River

Ban Vat Sene, Kingkisarath st.
Luang Prabang

+856-20-777-9497

matthieudevil@yahoo.fr

Sala Café Luang Prabang

Sala Café serves up simple Thai, Vietnamese, French and Lao dishes, one block away from the Apsara Hotel and Resaturant, and one block down from the 3 Nagas. Sala occupies a perfect quiet corner with terrace seating overlooking the Nam Khan River.