Sunday, April 18, 2010

The trip to Luang Prabang.

Slow Boat from Chiang Khong to Luang Prabang - Our Report with cost

From Chiang Mai caught the local bus 211 Baht 1pm, arrived in Chiang Khong at around 8pm. Bus ride was "ok" but the bus has a seat configuration of 2 - 3 - two seats on one side, 3 on the other. If you buy 2 tickets and they are A&B seats you are together on the "2" side. If you get C,D or E you'll be in the "3" side - which is not fun with a stranger - the seats are most definitely NOT wide enough for 3 Western shoulders (thin people). We had to recline the center seat so my friend could "slot" in and have her back and neck supported.

Luckily, after about 3.5 hours, most of the Thais get off, and the rest get off here and there for the rest of the journey. So at the 3.5 hour mark, you can bag 2 or 3 spare seats and it is fine. The 1st 3.5 hours is tough going.

Arriving in Chiang Khong, ignored the touts and got a 60b tuk tuk to the "town" and secured a nice fan room for 200b.There is a lady that greets the bus and offers 350b fan rooms with free tuk tuk to the pier the next morning, plus free Internet. Not a bad deal really, but we never book anything when arriving to a new place after so many bad experiences of being conned.

In the morning, 40 Baht tuk tuk to the Thai immigration right by the ferry crossing. Got coffee, queued at immigration at 7.45 am. Stamped out 10 minutes later, large queue forming behind us.

40 Baht water ferry across Meekong, Bought arrival visa $35 USD or 1500 Baht, so bring US if you can. Though you can change it right at the visa area!

Various tours offered us slow boat tickets immediately after immigration - we paid 1200Baht including tuk tuk to the pier. When we got to the pier we found we could have paid 1000 baht. No big deal.

Our "tour company" we bought the slow boat tickets off took everyones passports (We refused) - and gave them all a quick talk about the currency. They did NOT try the scam about "dangerous boats, you die, take 900 Baht coach instead" - they just took the passports to the pier and got the tickets, then returned them (I walked with the chap). Perhaps my presence and the fact I told him "I know the story about the "safety talk" discouraged them from scamming, but I doubt it. I assume only some of the companies try this on.

Bought cushions at the same place we bought our ferry tickets. 50 Baht. Essential.

The 1st boat was fine - many cushions were provided already, so you could use your own for your back, or to lean on the side of the boat. They sold beer, water, soft drinks and baguettes with either soft cheese (laughing cow - dairy lee) or Tuna salad. Plus crisps etc. Really enjoyable journey. Left at 11.30 am - arrived at Pak Beng at around 6pm - watched a beautiful sunset as we docked.

Pak Beng is fine. Whoever thinks it is seedy has led a sheltered life. Funny little one street town. Lots of accom touts, including on the ferry - they wanted 350Baht. We went to the same place they were touting, and paid 200 Baht. Kids didn't try and steal or grab our bags, though they enthusiastically empty the boats baggage hold and try to earn from 20 baht upwards to take your bag up what is a steep climb. A fair few people really appreciated this service. They didn't seem to try and force this service on anyone.

2nd day was harder, but still fun. Different boat, with "curved" sides so you sat a foot from the side, so you could not easily lean on the side. You learn to move about and find comfy positions. Another enjoyable day, helped largely by beer Loas. Only crisps and beer on sale this day, so shop well in Pak Beng.

Stunning scenery all the way, and fun rapids, which was a surprise. Arrived Luang Prabang 5pm. Even saw locals riding elephants on the river bank half way through the day.

Overall a great experience and well worth doing.

Aya Service in CM offered a minibus to Chiang Khong, then boat tickets and all taxis for 1800 Baht. Not a bad deal in reality but you arrived in Chiang Khong at 4am and slept for 3 hours before getting up again. We figured for a 2 day sail we needed proper sleep. Others we met did a similar service but arrived in Chiang Khong at 8pm so there are good packages out there.

Tips:
Get to each boat asap. Grab a seat on the side so you can lean on the railing and watch the scenery. Unlike an American girl who got on the second boat at 8.55am (9am departure) and said, in great surprise, "Like, oh my god, there are no cushions left". Like oh my god, get up earlier!
Buy a cushion.
Buy lunch in advance (and smokes)
Don't even consider sitting anywhere near the back of the boat near the engine. People were sleeping by it - god only knows how. Loud is an understatement. One girl looked like she wanted to die.
Chat to everyone, drink beers, and enjoy the Meekong.

Hope this helps someone :-)

Friday, March 19, 2010

My trip in Luang Prabang





Getting there - Luang Prabang - Laos


By Plane -- Lao Airlines (tel. 021/212-057, or 021/214-427 for reservations; www.laoairlines.com) has daily flights from Vientiane to Luang Prabang for US$52 (£29) one-way. Two flights weekly connect Luang Prabang with Xieng Khouang (US$40/£22) and Pakse (US$135/£74). There are no direct flights to the far north; for that, you'll need to fly directly from Vientiane.

The Luang Prabang International Airport handles international flights from Chiang Mai, Bangkok, Hanoi, and Siem Reap. On Lao Airlines, the cost is US$118 (£65) to Bangkok, US$72 (£40) to Chiang Mai, US$115 (£63) to Hanoi, and US$135 (£74) to Siem Reap. On Thai Air, Chiang Mai flights are US$85 (£47). Visas are available on arrival at the airport. Airport transport is best arranged through any hotel. Otherwise, hop a shared, three-wheeled jumbo for US$1 (£0.55) or so.

By Bus/Minivan -- The overland route to Luang Prabang from Vientiane takes about 10 hours by public bus, assuming there are no difficulties (breakdowns are common). There are international warnings about travel on this stretch, and though it has been quiet in recent years, you should ask around before hitting the road. The trip is bumpy and winding, and local buses are often packed. However, the jaw-dropping scenery, past the mountains and limestone formations at Vang Vieng and several Hmong hill villages, is well worth it. The bus costs 90,000 kip (US$9/£4.95) and has a few morning departures from Vientiane's Northern Bus Station. Go early to get a seat. Luang Prabang's NaLuang (Southern) Bus Station is a 10,000 kip (US$1/£0.55) per person shared tuk-tuk ride from the town center. There are also daily connections to Phonsavan (90,000 kip/US$9/£4.95) and the far north.

By Car/Jeep -- The mountain route by rented vehicle takes 7 hours and costs about 2,300,000 kip (US$230/£127), plus 600,000 kip (US$60/£33) per day, plus extra for the driver's meals and accommodations. If it seems steep, blame all the NGOs operating in Laos for driving up the prices -- they all get reimbursed from expense accounts (in case you were wondering where your charity money ends up).

By Boat -- Boat travel to and from Luang Prabang is quite popular. The local boat (called the slow boat) from Houayxay (near the Thai border) departs for Luang Prabang every morning. Arrive early at the riverside quay. The trip costs 120,000 kip (US$12/£6.6) and takes about 1 1/2 days to complete. You'll stay overnight in Pak Beng, a village with basic accommodations, before arriving in Luang Prabang on the afternoon of the next day (assuming no engine trouble or other delays). Be prepared for all kinds of discomfort, though you'll have many tales to tell afterward. The chug upriver from Luang Prabang takes up to 3 days and is not recommended.

Speedboats also connect Luang Prabang with Houayxay if they get enough passengers to make the trip worthwhile (contact the main port at tel. 021/215-924). Speedboat travel is uncomfortable, noisy, and dangerous, but it cuts the travel time to around 7 hours. Tour operators in town offer tickets for US$30 (£17).

Luang Say Cruises (Ban Vat Sene, Sakkarine Rd., Luang Prabang, near Diethelm Travel; tel. 071/252-553; www.asian-oasis.com) also operates tour boats on the same route between Thailand and Luang Prabang. Starting at around US$268 for a single in high season, there are both 2- and 3-day trips that take you on the river in style, catered to and comfortable, with 1-night stops at the Luang Say Lodge and/or the Kamu Lodge, both charming, rustic eco-lodges on the banks of the Mekong.

On all other river routes, like the Nam Tha between Luang Namtha and Pak Beng and the Nam Ou from Nong Kiao to Luang Prabang, you essentially have to charter your own boat with other tourists. Contact any travel agent or tour provider to make arrangements and get more details (availability varies by season).

Sala cafe's photo


Sala cafe, Luang Prabang







Opened in 2008, this French-owned café offers a mix of Laotian, Vietnamese and French cuisine. Second to none, however, are two things - their ice-cream cocktails and desserts, combining the very best of three above mentioned, and its unparalleled atmosphere and location. Sited on a less active Nam Khan River, it gains in ambiance and intimacy, in comparison to similar places on the Mekong, at the other end of the street.

Nam Khan River

Ban Vat Sene, Kingkisarath st.
Luang Prabang

+856-20-777-9497

matthieudevil@yahoo.fr

Sala Café Luang Prabang



Sala Café serves up simple Thai, Vietnamese, French and Lao dishes, one block away from the Apsara Hotel and Resaturant, and one block down from the 3 Nagas. Sala occupies a perfect quiet corner with terrace seating overlooking the Nam Khan River.